I took my first surfing lesson, thanks to Van Monak Chhun.
This is what I remember:
- the orange-red of the surfboard
- that the leash goes on the right foot
- that I fell often but with the technique they showed us
- that my first successful ride to the shore happened while I was on my knees
- that my second was upright and I followed the coast on a wave that seemed endless and that I remained standing all the way to the shore.
This is how I felt:
- exhilirated
- clear about the ratio of hard sweet work to pay-off to sweet digestion
This is what I remember:
- the orange-red of the surfboard
- that the leash goes on the right foot
- that I fell often but with the technique they showed us
- that my first successful ride to the shore happened while I was on my knees
- that my second was upright and I followed the coast on a wave that seemed endless and that I remained standing all the way to the shore.
This is how I felt:
- exhilirated
- clear about the ratio of hard sweet work to pay-off to sweet digestion
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